
1977 Pipeline photo Lance Trout

1992 Pipeline photo Bill Romehaus

T-shirt back photo Tom Boyle T "front pocket" photo Dereck Hoffmann

Sandy Beach photo Mike Wagonner
Words From Thoughts In My Brain That I Typed With My Fingers, e.i. - BOOGBLOG
Category: Life
Celebrate life. As the French say, "Joie de vivre!" The joy of life! Be passionate. Laugh.
Love. Respect yourself, each other, nature. Music is the language of God. Thank God for
musicians, and cornmedians. Comedians too. Make a regular effort toward health and
fitness. Have a good "play ethic", and don't be in too much of a rush to grow old. We've
discovered the Fountain of Youth. And we call it, the Pacific. But you have to get in it
almost daily, especially when the waves are good!
Discipline, to have some balance for the unruly child in us. It's all a voyage of self-
discovery. The shiny diamond is within us. It is amazing what we can accomplish with
focus, drive, and commitment. Health and fitness come to mind again. You can change
yourself, and you can change the world. When asked what it was like to come up with
the drop-knee stance, aka "the Jack Stance", I said I was just having fun. My clever
response a few days later was, "One small step for man, one giant flop of a flippered
foot forward for mankind!" And when I took my stance against the organizers of the Pipe
contest, boycotting the event at the height of my career, I stood by my belief that they
were holding back the athletes with the board restriction rule. Competitors were
required to use the stock brand board, and not their own custom magic board. It was a
as much as possible.
my favorite, "Flawless!"
let's get started! Aloha........

"The ride of my life (so far)!" Teahupoo, Tahiti 1994 Hank Foto
EXCERPTS FROM DA MYSTORY OF BODYBOARDING
SURFER Magazine April/May 1974 SURFER Feb./Mar. & April/May 1976

SURFER Oct./Nov. 1976 SURFER Jan. 1977

SURFER March 1977

SURFING Magazine April/May 1977 FIRST EDITORIAL PHOTO OF A BODYBOARDER
SURFING Aug./Sept. 1977 SURFING April/May 1978 & SURFER March 1978

SURFER Aug. 1978 Jeff Divine article and photos



SURFING June/July 1978 SURFING Aug 1978

SURFING April 1979

SURFING Sept 1979 Chris Carter Interview








